书藏古今，港通天下。宁波是一座向海而生，因港而兴的城市。为了向世界讲好宁波故事，宁波发布推出“双语宁波”栏目，围绕历史、地理、人文、经济等多个方面聚焦“世界的宁波，宁波的世界”。
作为海上丝绸之路的起点城市之一，宁波自古就和世界各地往来密切。今天，我们跟着宁波晚报“外国档案里的宁波”栏目，带大家换个视角，看看外国档案里的宁波是什么样子。
100多年前的外国人，如何打卡雪窦山？
How did international visitors depict Xuedou Mountain over 100 years ago?
展开剩余96%约翰·汤姆逊拍摄的千丈岩，出自《中国与中国人影像》。
The Qianzhang Cliff, photographed by John Thomson, from Illustrations of China and Its People.
雪窦山，自古便是宁波周边的名胜。位于千丈岩瀑布口的雪窦寺，始建于晋代，初名瀑布院，风景奇绝。唐会昌元年（841）移建今址，后多有毁建。
Xuedou Mountain has long been a renowned scenic spot in the vicinity of Ningbo. Xuedou Temple — originally built during the Jin Dynasty (266-420) and named “Waterfall Temple” — sits at the mouth of the Qianzhang Cliff Waterfall and enjoys stunning views. The temple was relocated to its current site in 841 AD of the Tang Dynasty (618-907) and has since undergone numerous reconstructions.
这里曾被写进丹青。400多年前，明代画家宋旭画过一页“雪窦飞瀑”，收录在他的《名山图册》里。
Its scenic beauty has been immortalized in paintings. Over 400 years ago, Song Xu (1525-1606) — a painter from the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) — depicted the majestic waterfall at Xuedou Mountain and featured it in his album of famous mountain paintings.
宋旭笔下的“雪窦飞瀑”。
The painting of "Xuedou Waterfall" by Song Xu.
英国人俄里范的著作中，较早出现了西方人关于雪窦山的素描。美国传教士夫人海伦·倪维思，德国地理学家李希霍芬，英国摄影师约翰·汤姆逊，美国摄影师杜德维，英国女性旅行家库明女士、立德夫人也都到过雪窦山，或用镜头或用文字记录下他们的旅行。
Earlier sketches of Xuedou Mountain by Westerners appeared in the works of British author Laurence Oliphant(1829-1888). Figures such as Helen S. C. Nevius (1833–1910, wife of an American missionary), German geographer Ferdinand von Richthofen (1833–1905), British photographer John Thomson (1837–1921), American photographer Edward Bangs Drew (1842–1924), and British travelers including Miss Constance Gordon-Cumming (1837–1924), Mrs. Archibald Little (1845–1924) visited the site. They recorded their journeys through written accounts or photographic lenses, preserving impressions of Xuedou Mountain in diverse forms.
“宁波周围，风景最秀丽的莫过于雪谷（即雪窦山）一带。”倪维思夫人的赞叹，也是许多人共同的感受。
Helen Nevius’ words of admiration echo the feelings of many: “There is no scenery in the neighborhood of Ningpo more inviting than Snowy Valley [Xuedou Mountain] and its vicinity.”
如今的雪窦山。宁波发布特约摄影师 傅旭涛/摄
Xuedou Mountain today.
雪窦山的瀑布
“Snow Valley”: Waterfalls
属于某种巧合，在西方游记中推荐雪窦山的多位都是女性。海伦·倪维思是宁波开埠后较早前往、留下文字记录的一位。
Interestingly, many of the Western travelers who recommended Xuedou Mountain were women. Among them, Helen was one of the earliest people to visit and document her experience after Ningbo opened as a treaty port.
1853年，海伦·倪维思和她的丈夫美国传教士约翰·倪维思自波士顿启程来华，1854年经上海到宁波。1864年，海伦因病提前返回美国，她于1869年出版的《在华岁月》一书记录的就是这十年间，她在中国的所见所闻。
In 1853, Helen and her husband, American missionary John Livingston Nevius, sailed from Boston to China and then arrived in Ningbo via Shanghai in 1854. However, she returned to the United States in 1864 due to illness, followed by the publication of her book Our Life in Chinawhich chronicled her ten years of life and observations in China five years later.
1869年版《在华岁月》中，关于宁波风光的插图。
Illustrations of Ningbo's scenery in the 1869 edition of Our Life in China.
“此地最值得称道的特色是瀑布和溪流，若在西方，必定会吸引众多游客前来观光。山涧一路冲向山下的平原，构成一系列落差很高的瀑布，美不胜收。每个瀑布附近，都建有佛教寺庙。小一些的庙宇，东一座西一所，散落在水边和岩壑石壁间。在这一系列瀑布中，首屈一指的是‘千丈岩瀑布’，高约百米，两边岩石则更高……再走15里路，又有一处瀑布，高约150米，从某些角度来看，更漂亮，人们称之‘徐凫岩瀑布’。此瀑布水量不大，尚未落到下面岩石，便已变成轻盈的细丝。”海伦想到，“位于纽约州卡尤加湖西岸的泰格卡尼克瀑布与之非常相似，但不及它一半高，水流量也小得多。”
Helen wrote: “The most remarkable feature of this locality is the waterfalls and ravines which, in Western lands, would attract crowds of admiring visitors. Mountain streams, forcing their way to the plain below, form a succession of waterfalls of great height and singular beauty. Near each of these cataracts is a Buddhist monastery; and innumerable smaller shrines are scattered here and there, by the wayside, or in niches in the rocks. Tsin-dziang-ngaen, the first of these falls, is about three hundred feet high, and the rocks on either side are much higher ... About five miles distant is still another fall, five hundred feet high, and in some respects more beautiful. It is called Z-wu. The volume of water is not great, and, before it reaches the rocks below, it is converted into light, feathery foam.” The scene reminded Helen that “Taghanuc Falls, on the west bank of Cayuga Lake, in New York, is strikingly like it, but Taghanuc is not half as high, nor has it as much water.”
1869年版《在华岁月》中使用的千丈岩瀑布插画。
A sketch of the Waterfall at Xuedou Mountain in Our Life in China.
雪窦山与溪口的早期素描
Early Sketches of Xuedou Mountain and Xikou Town
英国人俄里范1860年出版的著作中，有三张雪窦山、溪口的素描画，其中一张千丈岩与倪维思夫人的《在华岁月》存在“共享图库”的情况。这张画右下方隐约有画家手写签名，但不是很好辨认。
The 1860 publication of Laurence Oliphant features three sketches of Xuedou Mountain and Xikou Town, one of which shares similarities with the illustrations in Our Life in Chinaby Helen. This sketch of “Tseen-Chang-Yen Waterfall” (Qianzhang Cliff Waterfall) has what appears to be the artist’s handwritten signature in the lower right corner, though it is somewhat difficult to make out.
俄里范1860年版著作中的千丈岩素描。
The sketch of “Tseen-Chang-Yen Waterfall” in Laurence Oliphant’s book.
俄里范对雪窦山也是慕名而来，约在1857年至1859年间到达。“当我们到达海拔约1000英尺的地方时，从突出的山脊上回望，美丽的全景映入眼帘。山谷里散布着零星的村庄，被一条像银线一样蜿蜒的河流分开。而在我们右边，悬垂的竹林覆盖着陡峭的山坡，羽毛状的竹子颜色各异，形状优美，在微风中轻轻摇曳。”
Drawn by its reputation, Laurence arrived at Xuedou Mountain sometime between 1857 and 1859. “When we had attained an elevation of about 1000 feet, and looked back from a projecting spur in the range, a beautiful panoramic view met the eye. The valley we had traversed in the morning, dotted with scattered villages, and divided by the river winding away to the horizon like a silver thread, lay at our feet, while on our right pendulous woods of bamboo covered the steep slopes of the mountain: planted with perfect regularity, their feathery plumes, of varied hues and exquisite grace of form, waved gently in the breeze.”
第二日，俄里范游览了周边一带，俯瞰宽阔肥沃的山谷以及纵横交错河流与田野，也看到了山坡上的稻田和其他作物，有一些人影在田里干活，或者沿着蜿蜒的小路行走。
On the second day, Laurence toured the surrounding area, gazing over the vast, fertile valley where rivers weaved through fields. He noticed terraced rice paddies and other crops on the slopes, as well as people working in the fields or strolling along winding paths.
俄里范著作中的素描插图。
The sketch in Laurence Oliphant’s book.
在千丈岩顶峰，他抓着一棵松树，伸长脖子，看向下面的水潭，湍急的水流与高度让他头晕目眩；他来到瀑布脚下，被淋得浑身湿透。
At the peak of the Qianzhang Cliff Waterfall, he gripped a pine tree and craned over to glimpse the pool beneath. The roaring waters and dizzying height made his head spin. As he descended to the foot of the fall, he was soaked by the misty spray.
俄里范感慨道，“在任何国家，这样的地方都值得一游。”“任何旅行者在访问宁波时都应该先去山上一游。”
Oliphantwrote: “In any country they would be worthy of a visit.” He further suggested, "Any traveler visiting Ningbo should first take a trip to the mountain."
摄影师镜头下的雪窦山
Xuedou Mountain Through the Lens
19世纪70年代，雪窦山走来了两位摄影师，约翰·汤姆逊与在宁波税务司工作的杜德维。他们为雪窦山拍下的照片，弥足珍贵且传播广泛。
In the 1870s, two photographers, John Thomson and Edward Bangs Drew (an employee of the Ningbo Tax Service), visited Xuedou Mountain. Their photos of the mountain are highly valuable and widely circulated.
约翰·汤姆逊于1872年4月3日来到宁波，在他的四卷本巨著《中国与中国人影像》中，雪窦山也是一个独立的篇章，图文并茂细节丰富。
John arrived in Ningbo on April 3, 1872. In his four-volume work, Illustrations of China and Its People, Xuedou Mountain is richly illustrated and detailed to form a separate chapter.
约翰·汤姆逊1874年版著作中关于雪窦山的章节。
The chapter on Xuedou Mountain in John Thomson's 1874 edition work.
和前人一样，约翰·汤姆逊不吝笔墨地描写着晨曦中的田野、芦苇间静静流动的河水、秀美的竹子、遒劲的古树。
John, like his predecessors, spared no words in describing the fields bathed in the morning light, the quietly flowing river among the reeds, the graceful bamboo, and the sturdy ancient trees.
他眼里有景也有人。“这里的杜鹃花很有名，其时正值盛开的季节，漫山遍野飞霞披彩，一簇簇花朵在深绿色枝叶的衬托下鲜艳异常，沿着小径的两边一路绽放。”附近的妇女和孩童会在“他们的头上插上杜鹃花作为装饰”。
“The azaleas, for which the place is celebrated, were in full bloom, mantling the hills and valleys with rosy hues, and throwing out their blossoms in clusters of surpassing brilliancy against the deep green foliage which binds the edges of the path.” He observed not just the landscape but also the people: “The women and children of this district would adorn their raven tresses with the bright flowers of the azalea.”
作为一个摄影师，汤姆逊形容说：“没有任何照片能再现这个地方仙境一般的美丽，色彩斑斓的岩石上长满了蕨类植物和开着花的灌木，水流从布满苔藓的峭壁上飞驰而下，就像新娘轻盈的头纱。翻过巨大的山石，穿过几丛竹子，我来到瀑布下的水潭边，飞溅的水雾映射出一道道彩虹，碧绿的叶子上挂着成千上万颗闪亮的宝珠，叶子低垂着，就好像在承接瀑布倾泻而下的重量。”
On one of the following days, the photographer was conducted by an aged monk to view the Qianzhang Cliff Waterfall. “No picture can convey an idea of the romantic beauty of the place. The variously-coloured rocks were covered with ferns and flowering shrubs, and the water, broken over the mossy ledges, fell like the delicate folds of a bridal veil. Climbing over huge boulders and beneath bamboo clumps, I reached the stone basin below, where the spray was lit with a hundred rainbow hues, scattering a thousand gems on the ferns, which seemed to bend their leaves and catch the burden of the fall.”
约翰·汤姆逊拍摄的三隐潭瀑布上方。（据地方文化研究者仇柏年考证成果）
The upper part of “Sung-ing-day” Waterfall photographed by John Thomson. (According to the research results of local culture researcherQiu Bainian)
他还去了三隐潭瀑布。“到达那里要经过一座诗情画意的单拱桥，桥上爬满了藤蔓。水流落入一个又深又窄的沟壑，暗绿的松树阴沉沉地矗立在悬崖边，底下那幽暗的深渊里，溪水在乱石嶙峋的河床上找到了一条新的去路。远处的山坡上一片闲静的田园风光，而眼前又是如此的险峻峥嵘，这样摄人心魄的美景，真是世间罕有。”
He also visited the fall commonly known as “Sung-ing-day”, which is “approached by a picturesque bridge of a single arch concealed beneath the creepers that overgrow it.” He wrote: “The water here descends into a deep, narrow chasm, and groups of tall, dark pines look sombrely over the verge of this precipice into the dark abyss below, where the river seeks a new channel through a rough and broken bed. The peaceful cultivated hills above and the rugged foreground present a combination as rare as it is striking.”
雪窦山上的花
Flowers on Xuedou Mountain
1879年4月底，雪窦山走来一位英国维多利亚时代的著名女性旅行作家、画家库明。她在宁波旅行了一个月，时而在市井漫步，时而去郊外寻幽。
In late April 1879, the renowned British Victorian travel writer and painter Constance Frederica Gordon-Cumming (1837-1924) arrived at Xuedou Mountain. During her month-long sojourn in Ningbo, she immersed herself in the city’s vibrant culture, meandering through its bustling streets and venturing into the tranquil countryside.
库明。
Cumming.
她前往雪窦山的时间是1879年5月7日，和另两位女性朋友结伴。之前她们就听说山谷里的杜鹃花非常有名，亲眼看到的景象更是超出了她们的期待。
On May 7, 1879, Lady Cumming ascended Xuedou Mountain with two female companions. Drawn by the valley’s famed rhododendrons, they were thrilled to discover that the vibrant display exceeded their expectations.
“当我们开始攀登山谷时，很快发现自己已经到了杜鹃花海。”她的朋友如此写道，“尽管橙色的杜鹃花丛美不胜收，但深红色已经褪去，地上的血红色与落花交织在一起，诉说着它们消失的荣耀。”
“When we commenced the ascent of the valley we soon found ourselves in the azalea belt,” Cumming and her friend Ave sorely regretted not having arrived a fortnight earlier, for “though the thickets of orange azalea are gorgeous beyond measure, the crimson is all faded, and the ground blood-red with the fallen blossoms, telling what must have been their vanished glory.”
她们在路上见到一排排芬芳的金银花，还有两种雪白的山楂花，“都像在英国小路上一样盛开，这里的鸟儿唱得如此欢快，杜鹃的叫声听起来如此自然，几乎让我们忘记了离家有多远”。
On the journey, they encountered lush trails of fragrant honeysuckle and the snowy blossoms of hawthorn in two varieties, both “blooming in as rich perfection as if in an English lane.” Cumming marveled: “No wonder that happy birds here sing so joyously! and the cuckoo’s note sounded so natural as almost to make us forget how far from home we were.”
在雪窦山谷，库明和朋友们在溪流旁享受了野餐，在徐凫岩瀑布上的拱桥旁看到了更多成群的白玫瑰、山楂花、杜鹃花，还有一簇簇猩红色、深红色的花丛，让三位爱美的女人心满意足。
Cumming and her friends enjoyed a picnic by the stream and admired clusters of white roses, hawthorn, golden azalea, and lingering patches of scarlet and crimson near the arch bridge by the Xufuyan waterfall. All the three ladies were captivated by the breathtaking views.
徐凫拱桥，出自《杜德维的相册》。
Xufu Arch Bridge, from Drew's Album.
消失的“宝典”
The Missing “Treasure Book”
库明女士的书出版不久，就被另一位英国女性作家、旅行家阿绮波德·立德看到。她在后来自己的游记中写：“她（库明女士）笔下描写的宁波附近的杜鹃花，令我很是着迷。当时我就想，如果有一天能专门去中国看杜鹃花该多好。谁知，这一天真的来了。”
”Soon afterwards, the publication of Ms. Cumming’s book was spotted by Mrs. Archibald Little (1845-1926), another English author and traveler. “... travelling through the English Lakes in the mouth of June and rejoicing in the rhododendrons and azaleas, so lovely there, I read Miss Gordon Cumming’s account of the azaleas on the hills behind Ningpo, and thought I must some day come to China just on purpose to see them. But I did not then think that I should ever really do so.”
年轻时的立德夫人。
Mrs. Little in her youth.
1894年的立德夫人和她的丈夫，图自伦敦国家肖像画廊。
Mrs. Littleand her husband in 1894, from the National Portrait Gallery, London.
她到达宁波时间是4月，正值春天。次日，她就迫不及待去了雪窦山。“猛地看到松树丛下粉色的杜鹃花时，我们的惊喜便油然而生。从远处看去，附近一两个山坡上全都铺满了红彤彤的杜鹃花。经过一个山坡时，我们不由得跳下去，采摘各种颜色的杜鹃花。它们就像在英国花园里一样娇艳动人，竞相开放，有玫瑰红的，粉红的，还有紫色的……到了吃午餐的时候，我们来到了一条水流很急的小河边。小河两岸开满了紫罗兰一样的花朵，我们就在这河边吃起午餐来。”
Mrs. Little couldn’t wait to go to Xuedou Mountain the day just after she arrived in Ningbo from Shanghai. “But there came a moment of intense excitement, when we first caught sight of azaleas, pink beneath the fir trees. Then there was a hillside or two in the distance all ruddy with them. At last we were carried over such a hill and sprang out and gathered our hands full of pale pink, of rosy red, of mauve and again of purple reddish azaleas. They were quite as lovely as in English gardens... We lunched by a swift stream, on whose banks grew what looked like violet flowers, but violet flowers with leaves most unlike violets. And there we sat and watched the rafts go by.”
比较特别的是，住在雪窦寺的夜晚，立德夫人还收到了僧人们提供的一本“书”——“它完全不同于我们以往所看到的旅游指南，旅客们几乎都在尝试，想在上面给后来者留下些人生感悟。旅客玛高温医生简单地介绍了当地的历史。维尔特·梅特赫斯特爵士在书中详细介绍了这里的游览路线与游览顺序。当然，这里的一切都那么迷人，那些书反倒没那么重要了。书里还记载了很多鸟的名字，可花的名字没有记述。旅客福莱尔医生写下了他对这里的观察与感悟，他最关注的是庙宇门口的两棵树，不知是什么特殊品种。”
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